technique: All About Eyeliner part 2

Part one is located here.  That covers general eyeliner technique-contouring, smudging, deciding what shapes and intensities are most flattering on your eyes.  Now, we’ll move onward to cat-eyes.

Especially if you are trying a new shape, or if you’re just practicing wings, apply them BEFORE applying shadow, apply shadow over, and THEN redo the line, following the template that shows through the eyeshadow.  When planning your wing, consider the effect it wants.  A more dramatic vintage look might extend the wing a bit further from your eye, than a slight upturn intended to make mature eyelids, or tired or droopy eye structures look more perky and open.

Angle it along the curve of your lower lashline for a natural effect.  For more costumey effects, you can tweak it, angling it gentler, or steeper.  But a basic flattering cateye ALWAYS follows your eyes natural shape.  Sketch the wing, Line the eye, and fill in a rounded triangle between the two to make it look  like a connected, flowing curve.

Also, you can use a piece of tape after pressing it against your hand to remove some of the sticky, or a post it note.  Angle it along the bottom edge of where you want your wing, stick it down, apply liner, and remove it.

You may also need to tweak that wing angle to make your eyes match.  Very few people have perfectly symmetrical faces, and you may find that the lower lashline curve of one eye is steeper than the other.  If that’s the case, look at the angle of the curve, and pick an angle right in between the natural curves, for both eyes.  This way, they won’t look mismatched, and it will make your eyes appear to have a more uniform curve, if you apply the same shading to the outer edge of the lower lashline as well.  Keep the length uniform though.  You can compensate for different creases or lid spaces in the contouring and shading you do, but eyeliner, wings especially, are dark and harsh, and will look very jarring if you attempt to line one eye heavier than the other, or match one eyes curve EXACTLY to the other eyes curve, rather than shading it into an even middle ground. For instance, my Left eye has a steeper upturn at the end, then my Right eye.  It’s a very small difference, but enough of one that when patting liner shapes into place, I usually angle my left eyes liner down a little bit, so it won’t get folded in the crease.(the left eye is the one that you usually see photographed on the blog.  For some reason, it’s easier for me to take pictures of it).  So the Left eye angle is at a gentler curve that matches the other eye better, and allows it to be showcased better.

I like to use a gel or cream liner for the beginning sketch, and sometimes touch up the final liner with liquid to make it especially vivid.  Wet pigment in a pointed brush is excellent for making the tiny tic marks that suggest where your wings will extend, and you have a LOT of control over the angle of the falloff, and thickness of the wing.

Here’s an illustration, with brief directions on the steps for basic cat-eye placement.

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3 Comments (+add yours?)

  1. Lynda
    Dec 07, 2010 @ 02:49:35

    Your diagrams are awesome! They are worth 1K words! Thank yew!

    Reply

    • dolcearia
      Dec 07, 2010 @ 16:54:12

      Thanks. I know I learn better visually. I keep little notebooks full of makeup sketches just so I can figure out where I want things placed, and how harsh the contours should be. As helpful as the descriptions can be for figuring out HOW to achieve a particular effect, I wanted to offer a quick reference that might be easier to recall when staring at your reflection.

      I’m glad you liked it!

      Reply

  2. leslie
    Nov 13, 2011 @ 01:34:45

    the diagram made it easier for me to learn … thank you

    Reply

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