Technique: All about eyeliner part 3

And now for part 3! Here’s parts 1 and 2. Although a general liner shape and contour or cateye works most of the time, sometimes you want more dramatic or crazy effects!   We’ll focus on the double wing technique, since that one is generally more wearable, if you get practiced at applying it.

For Arabic eye makeup, dramatic looks, and some stage makeup, double wings are used to make the lashes look fuller, and the eyes larger and more open.  These can be tricky to apply and pull off.  Always apply sketches of the wings BEFORE you put hard work into the eyeshadow, so you’ll have your angles matched, without needing to fuss with makeup remover.

My first step is always deciding which eyeliner wing I want to be the dominant one.  Accent the top one, and your upper  lashes will look fuller.  Apply your wing just SLIGHTLY above where you usually would, at the outer corner.  Leave a faint space, and then sketch the lower one in slightly below you would.  You can fill in the space between wings with white liner, glitter, eyeshadow, etc. to increase the contrast.   I like to visualize where the contrasting “filler” will be and place that DIRECTLY on the normal cateye curve.

To accent the lower lashline, make that line thicker, starting just below the outer corner.  Sketch it slightly longer and darker than the upper wing will be, and focus on keeping it fluid with liner or shadow applied to the lower lashline.   Place the upper wing just above the outer corner, and fill in the contrast filler color.  Touch up the wings to the desired thickness and angle, following your usual rules for smoothing out cateyes.

The upper wing dominant tends to look exotic and sultry, and the lower wing dominant tends to look a little more playful, especially if you add a hint of a curve to the wing, rather than a straight diagonal.  For the level of detail needed in these wings(both wings tend to be considerably thinner than your standard cateye wing) I prefer a thicker liner that won’t move around as much when I apply it.  I don’t recommend liquid liners for this level of detail.  My best results use gel liner with an angled brush, or with a pointed brush.

You can get a lot of crazy effects with the right liner design.  So long as you keep the curve natural with the lash line, it will look flattering, if not “natural” to wear double wings and experimental designs.

The most important idea is to match your angles, with the lines of your lashes.  You can invert the bottom wing of your lashes to match your upper lashline, or keep the angle of your upper lashline wings, but place them well above the crease.

You can even curve your wings, or liner shapes, so long as the tail echoes your outer corner.  This gives the effect of lashes having a dramatic upward curl just at the ends.  Preserving the angles that are natural to your face structure, however, can go a long way towards making sure the effect is organic on your face and eye shape.

This placement also makes a good guide for other types of detailing that may not be a solid liner “wing”.  I use them to place details such as drawn shapes along a curve that I know flatters my face.

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