tutorial-Filthy/Gorgeous daytime eye

The basic breakdown for this look is here. There’ll be another part to this tutorial, on turning this into a night time smoky eye.

Don’t be afraid to tweak the colors or ingredients for your preferences.  The ones I used should work for a variety of skin types, but the shimmery primr may be too much for exceptionnal dry skin, or if you have unevenness, wrinkles, etc. you don’t want to emphasize.

If you are lucky enough to have your hands on the Urban Decay naked palette, you can use that palette for all of the colors needed.  It’ll be a little more shimmery, but thats it.

WE’ll need MUFE Aqua Cream in Warm Beige(or a shimmery primer like UDPP in Sin, MAC Bare Study paintpot, etc.).  We’ll also use MAC Kid(UD Naked) MAC Cork(UD Buck), MAC Naked Lunch(UD Sin), MAC Vex(UD Virgin), Smashbox cream liner in Starstruck, your mascara of choice(Fresh Supernova).

Fill in your brows according to your preference.

Apply your Aqua Cream to the lower lid.  I like to use my finger, because the body heat can make it easier to blend in.  If you’d prefer to use a brush, use a dense brush(like a concealer brush), and heat the brush up with a blow drier for a few seconds before applying the product.  If you are using a matte base instead, or if you like all-over shimmer, you can take the color all the way to the brow bone.  I blended it out above the crease instead, since shimmery highlights tend to highlight some scars on below my brow bone.

Use a fluffy shadow brush(Like the sephora 23) to apply Kid to the cresae.  I used an even windshield wiper motion to sweet the color from the outer edge, to the inner corner.  The color is soft enough on my skin to blend it out. If you have medium skin, you may use a deeper brown like Cork for the crease instead, and pick an even deeper taupe to replace Cork with in our next step.

Thinking of our next step, apply Cork to the outer corner of the lid, blending with the edge of Kid.  Use the same brush(or a similar brush).  We want the color to be fairly subtle here.  Blend in small circles, gradually expanding the color outward over the outer lower lid.  I chose cork because it’s pale enough to be subtle, but hte reddish tawny tones in it  will emphasize most eye colors(especially blue and green).

 

Next, clean off your brush.  Apply Naked Lunch to your highlight area, blending it with the top of the crease.  This color is REALLY soft, and should work on a variety of skin tons.  On me, it’s pretty much invisible.  Just a faint sheen.

Use an angled eyeliner brush to fill in upper lashline with Starstruck.  I used the Ulta angled shadow/liner brush. It’s slightly thicker, and less dense than my other angled liner brushes.  By only using a LITTLE product, I was able to get a fairly sheer, diffused line.  You can use your standard liner brush, and smudge it with a q tip, sponge smudger, or sponge eyeshadow applicator.  Start at the outer corner, working your way inwards along the lash line.  We want the densest color at the outer edge.    Adapt this part for your eye shape.  If you want a sheerer line, don’t layer it at all. If you have hooded lids, you may want the line to be thinner, so that the light reflecting on the lower lids eyeshadow can add a sense of space to the lid. There’s lots of room for variation here.

Using the same brush, or a pointed liner brush, fill in lower lashline and waterline with Starstruck.  It’ll be a bit sheer, but that’s OK.  We just want the appearance of a contour, not an actual dense colored line.

Clean off the angled eyeshadow brush, and sweep a little bit of Cork at the outer lower lashline, to soften it further.  We really want the edge of the eye to look like a natural contour, rather than a harsh liner-line.

This step is almost invisible, except in person.  Clean off your fluffy eyeshadow brush, and apply Vex to the inner corner, and inner lower lashline.  The color is nearly invisible, but the soft pale sheen will help brighten tired eyes, and make you look more alert. I like to do this AFTER the liner, so I can use it to diffuse the inner edge of the liner more.  Heavy liner on the inner eye will close most eye shapes.  Blending a shimmery shadow over it  can help soften it a bit, though you don’t want to rely on this with more opaque liner colors.

Curl lashes, and apply a coat of mascara.

Redo the outer edge of the liner now that the first coat as set.  We want a slightly deeper color at this edge, and it blends better over dry liner, rather than wet liner that still smudges.

If desired, apply another coat of mascara(I usually do, but I LOVE  heavy lashes).  use a coral concealer under the eyes for any outstanding bags or discoloration, stippling concealer inward to the lashline color, to avoid completely smearing it.

Finish your face as you wish.  I used Tarte Hotel Heiress, a bronzer, for blush.  I tried to just give the face a dewy glow, with that, and a powder highter that is NOT significatly lighter than my skin(LORAC Perfectly Lit.  Top it off with your usual variety of nude lips(I opted for a slightly browner rose, NARS Stolen Kisses) to match the bronzed colors, and complete the illusion of a “warm glow”).  See? Daytime appropriate, dewy neutral look!

 

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